Access all the instructional videos and plans. A follow-up; I purchased a Veritas Tapered Gauge, from Lee Valley, and re-measured the 12th fret action on the guitar I have been discussing. Here is a little essay that resulted: can you confirm the measurements are all done the same way? Thanks for doing the survey, Robert. The staircase effect enables the movement of the strings to clear the fret in front of the fretted note without hitting it. A common result of having your strings too low is fret buzz. Maybe get a piece of paper in there without moving the string. If there is one or more frets sticking up above the plane they can cause your string to buzz. by Steve Ganz » Saturday 12 April 2014, 17:31 pm, Users browsing this forum: bacsidoan, curtis e allen, Dmitrypey, dofrenzy, eyedoc, josh.french, oc chuck, Paul Micheletti, R L Vaughn, SteveL123, vesa and 38 guests, Powered by phpBB® Forum Software © phpBB Limited, Construction and repair of Classical Guitar and related instruments. Fret Buzz is that ugly sound a guitar makes when the plucked string is rattling on the fret or frets above it on the fingerboard. by Waddy Thomson » Sunday 07 March 2010, 03:59 am, Post Watch a demo on using the kit. Necks are made of wood. ↳ Lutes, Baroque and Renaissance Guitars, etc. If the action is adjusted too low, then volume, sustain, and clarity of sound are reduced. I build classical guitars so I will keep the discussion about design strictly about classical guitars. 4. If my guitars have such a low action without buzzing, I couldn't be happier. Therefore, if a fret is even slightly higher than the plane of the rest of the frets, fret buzz may occur. If a fret was not seated properly when it was installed it will stick up a bit. After first checking the nut and the neck angle it may be possible to correct this by either raising the nut or lowering the high fret behind the fretted note. A fret only has to be a couple of thousandths of an inch too high to cause fret buzz. They also have the steepest neck angle since this provides more clearance up the fingerboard. How many people use the ruler-eyeball method and take the results as gospel? Only stable quarter-sawn wood should be used for a neck. I use a milled extrusion with sandpaper to level the frets as do many today. The kit will work on any type of guitar. The drawing illustrates this staircase effect created by the neck angle. Music is a big continent with different landscapes and corners. Incorrect neck angle will cause the strings to be either too low or too high. In other words the neck does not remain flat but will have a slight concave curve from the nut to where it meets the body of the guitar. The lower the string height (or action) the easier the guitar is to play. It is the slapping sound of the string hitting the fingerboard in front of the fret being played. Some should be tackled by a qualified professional guitar repair person. If the guitar was built properly it can be fixed and often without expensive repairs. by Lance Litchfield » Friday 11 April 2014, 00:31 am, Post This is true even if it is quarter-sawn. The result of the tension pulling the neck forward is to bow the neck slightly. Some types of strings travel more than others and hence may require more clearance. ↳ How to Participate in the Delcamp Classical Guitar Forum, ↳ Archives of Public Space and its subforums, ↳ Use of nails in playing the classical guitar, ↳ Search for classical guitar sheet music, ↳ Ergonomics and Posture for Classical Guitarists, ↳ Classical guitar recording and amplification, ↳ Historical Background to Classical Guitar pieces, ↳ Archives of past "Classical Guitars for Sale", ↳ Guitar accessories and luthier supplies for sale, ↳ Advice on buying, selling or valuing a guitar. The first thing you want to do is take your feeler gauge and check the distance between the string of the first fret and the fret itself. There is a range between 10-12mm that works best. Recently I could watch him to set p the nuts of the gutars he's presently working on and I saw that he has a very precise method of determing the distance of the to the first fret that is independent of the sdalle height - that seems to confirm what everybody is saying here. by petermc61 » Friday 11 April 2014, 21:10 pm, Post I measure the action heights accurately rather than eyeballing. ↳ How to Participate in the Delcamp Classical Guitar Forum, ↳ Archives of Public Space and its subforums, ↳ Use of nails in playing the classical guitar, ↳ Search for classical guitar sheet music, ↳ Ergonomics and Posture for Classical Guitarists, ↳ Classical guitar recording and amplification, ↳ Historical Background to Classical Guitar pieces, ↳ Archives of past "Classical Guitars for Sale", ↳ Guitar accessories and luthier supplies for sale, ↳ Advice on buying, selling or valuing a guitar. If your string reaches the feeler gauge (.018 inches is the best gauge to use for optimal nut action height) you are all set. For a classical guitar the string height for the 6th string on the bass side should be about .155″ or 4mm at the 12th fret. The string height of a classical guitar affects both the sound and playability of a classical guitar. You just need a bit of clearance. Wood moves so it is important that the hardware be set up correctly to ensure the best playability at all times. An improperly set up guitar can cause all kinds of problems from being difficult to play to things such as fret buzz and string slap. ↳ Classical Guitar Concerts, Competitions and Conventions, ↳ Your messages to the site administrator, ↳ Our recordings of Members' Compositions, ↳ Our recordings of Romantic and Modern music, ↳ Our recordings of Agustín Barrios Mangoré, ↳ Scores for classical guitar - D01, D02, D03, ↳ Scores for classical guitar - D04, D05, D06, ↳ Scores for classical guitar - D07, D08, D09, ↳ Scores for classical guitar - D10, D11, D12, ↳ First tests (Extracts of works in progress), Recommended action height at 12th fret survey, http://www.classicalguitardelcamp.com/v ... 845#topic4, Re: Recommended action height at 12th fret survey.
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